 |
| Rustic Market Bag |
Crochet mesh bags are a classic, but nowadays these simple market / beach bags, seems to be a popular fashion accessories, as well. When I made my crochet market bag, I wanted that rustic feeling, and decided to use my Springtime Magic Mandala to create a beautiful bottom for the bag and to use a cotton/linen blend yarn.
And here it is; My Rustic Market Bag. Hope you'll enjoy the pattern
If you prefer a PDF-file, or would like more pictures, you can buy the pattern in my Ravelry store for $1. The PDF-download includes a US, UK and Norwegian version.
 |
| Rustic Market Bag |
You need:
♥ Yarn; Drops Belle, approx 80 g / 192 m (Yarn weight: 8ply / DK / worsted, 20-22 stitches)
♥ Hook, 4 mm
♥ Scissors
♥ Needle
Abbreviations, US terms
rnd = round
ss = slip stitch
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble
tr = treble
ch-sp = chain space
blsc = back loop single crochet (crochet trough back loop only)
dc2tog = double crochet 2 together
[example]x3 = Work the instructions inside the [-] as many times as the number after the x.
Bag
If a round starts
with a dc, the first dc is replaced by ch3 or a Faux
double crochet. Finish with 1
ss in 3rd ch, if you replaced the 1st dc with ch3
Work a magic ring (or ch4,
ss in 1st ch)
1.
Ch2, 1 dc
in the ring = 1 dc2tog *ch1, dc2tog in the ring*, repeat from*-* four more
times, finish with a sc in 1st dc = 1 ch1-sp, (6 dc2tog)
2.
2 dc in the
last ch1-sp (sc), [(2 dc, ch1, 2 dc) in next ch-sp]X5, finish with 2 dc in the
last ch1-sp (sc), 1 sc in 1st dc = 1 ch1-sp, (24 dc + 6 ch)
3.
4 dc in
the last ch1-sp 2, [7 dc in next ch-sp]x5,
3 dc in the last ch1-sp, finish with a ss in 1st dc, (6 petals)
3 dc in the last ch1-sp, finish with a ss in 1st dc, (6 petals)
4. Please note that you insert the hook in the space between the dc on round 2, not round 3, when you work a dc.Ch1 = 1 sc, ch3,
1 dc in between the last dc in a ch-sp and the first dc in the next ch-sp on rnd 2, ch3, *1 sc i the 4th
dc in next petal, ch3, 1 dc in between the last dc in a ch-sp and the first dc
in the next ch-sp on rnd 2, ch3*
repeat from *-* 4 more times, finish with 1 ss in 1st ch, (12 ch3-sp)
5.
2dc in 1st
sc (ch1), 3 dc in next ch3-sp, 2 dc in next dc, 3 dc in next ch3-sp, *2 dc in
next sc, 3 dc in next ch3-sp, 2 dc in next dc, 3 dc in next ch-sp*, repeat from
*-* around, finish with 1 ss in 1st dc. (60 dc)
6.
1 dc in 1st
dc, *ch1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc*, repeat from *-* around, finish with ch1,
skip 1 dc, 1 ss in 1st dc, (30
dc + 30 ch-sp)
7.
1 dc in 1st
dc, 2 dc in next ch-sp, *1dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-sp*, repeat from *-*
around, finish with 1 ss in 1st dc, (90 dc)
8.
Ch1 = 1 sc,
*ch4, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc*, repeat from *-* around, but the last time you work ch1, 1
dc in 1st sc (ch1) = 1 ch4-sp, (30
ch4-sp)
9.
Work 1 sc in the
last ch4-sp, *ch5, 1 sc in next ch4-sp*, repeat from *-* around, but the last time you work ch2, 1 dc in 1st sc = 1 ch5-sp, (30
ch5-sp)
10.
Work 1 sc in the
last ch5-sp, *ch6, 1 sc in next ch5-sp*, repeat from *-* around, but the last time you work ch2, 1 tr in 1st sc = 1 ch6-sp, (30
ch6-sp)
11.
Work 1 sc in the
last ch6-sp, *ch6, 1 sc in next ch6-sp*, repeat from *-* around, but the last time you work ch2, 1 tr in 1st sc = 1 ch6-sp, (30
ch6-sp)
12. – 30. Work as round 11.
31.
Work 1 sc in the
last ch6-sp, *ch3, 1 sc in next ch6-sp*, repeat from *-* around, finish with ch3,
1 ss in 1st sc, (30 ch3-sp)
32.
Ch1 = 1 sc, 3
sc in next ch3-sp, *1 sc in next sc, 3 sc in next ch3-sp*, repeat from *-*
around, finish with 1 ss in 1st sc (ch1), (120 sc)
33.
Ch1 = 1 sc, 1 blsc
in each of the next 29 sc, 1 sc in next sc, ch75, skip 28 sc, 1 sc in next sc,
1 blsc in each of the next 30 sc, 1 sc in next sc, ch 75, skip 28 sc, 1 sc in
next sc, finish with 1 ss in 1st sc (ch1), (64 sc + 150 ch)
34.
Ch1 = 1 sc, 1
blsc in each of the next 30 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 75 ch, 1 blsc in each
of the next 32 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 75 ch, 1 blsc in next sc, finish
with 1 ss in 1st sc (ch1), (214
sc)
35.
Ch1 = 1 sc, 1 blsc
in each sc around, finish with 1 ss in 1st sc (ch1) (214 sc)
 |
| Rustic Market Bag |
Kommer den kjøpte pdf fil som diagram? Skulle så gjerne heklet dette nettet men klarer ikke knekke den skriftlige koden. Klarer å hekle etter diagram. Mvh Benedicte
SvarSlettThank you for the amazing pattern it was easy to follow and I was able to create 4 birthday gifts for my daughters.
SvarSlettI love this pattern! Do you have Instagram? I've posted pics of my make and I've credited you but would love for you to see. Thanks
SvarSlettI would like to buy the PDF but the Ravelry pattern section is not working, I get an error message on all the patterns I try to download. Could I not buy it directly from you?
SvarSlettHi, I don’t understand round 1 instructions, how to dc2tog when there aren’t any stitches to crochet together? Thank you.
SvarSlettIt sounds like you might be trying to decrease instead of dc2tog? In a dc2tog you are making the two new dcs and joining them at the top. Just stop your first dc while you still have 2 loops, make your next dc, and pull your final yo through all 3 loops left at the end, and you have a dc2tog!
SlettHi! I need help understanding the pattern. First thing, I don't understand the use of the "=" signs as in " 1 dc in the ring = (EQUALS?) 1 dc2tog". Does it means that one equals the other or is it used as a coma? example : (12 ch3-sp)
SvarSlettSecondly, what means the parenthese in bold caracter at the end of every steps of the pattern. Is it the result I should be having at the end of the step? Or the next step?
Then, I understand that abreviation ch-sp means chainspace, but what does the number included in the abreviation means, as in ch3-sp??
Thank you for your help. I'm obviously a beginner, but I love this pattern and really wish to make it right.
Hi, I was also confused but I decided to tackle the pattern anyway. Mine looks like the picture after some attempts! So the = sign does mean equal. in the example "1 dc in the ring = 1 dc2tog", the author is just noting that the stitches are the same thing. So don't stitch the 1 dc2tog that is after the equal sign.
SlettFor the (#) at the end of every step, that is the total amount of stitches you should have at the end of the round.
The ch#-sp, that means the size of the chain space. So a single crochet would leave a ch1-sp, double crochet ch2-sp and so on. Hope this all helps!!
Thank you so much! This is helping a lot. Gives me confidence to try the pattern! :)
SlettThank you so much! This is helping a lot. Gives me confidence to try the pattern! :)
SlettI. LOVE. THIS. BAG! In these times of quarantine, it's the only pattern I want to make. I got a chance to use this bag and it's awesome. Only made a couple of changes (did slip stitches to the middle of the loop at the start of each type and shortened the bag and handle). Thanks for this pattern 😊
SvarSlettHi there! What a great way to reduce waste from grocery shopping! Do you think this pattern could be adapted to create a smaller bag, and if so, do you have any recommendations on how to accomplish that?
SvarSlettHello! It's a beautiful pattern. Can I sell the bag I make?
SvarSlettHello! It's a wonderful pattern! Once you understand the last stitches in every round it's is easy to follow! Can I sell the finished product, mentioning you as the maker of the pattern of course!
SvarSlett